This week as I continue to evolve, with the help of my readers, an identity driven conception of personal style I am struck by the importance of context. I am thinking about it’s use as an an analytic lens with which to expand the way I look at at a fashion show or a collection or even images on Instagram. Context, as was evidenced by many of the comments I received, was a force to be reckoned with as it exerted a power that led to the abandonment of one’s personal expression through fashion or it facilitated the expression and development of it.
Inspired by the two articles in the bibliography designed to stimulate critical thought, it becomes clearer to me that the context that an image or an outfit appears in is full of meaning, perhaps even more than the actual garment, as proposed by Barthes. It gave me a clue about a more nuanced way to think about “where” I am taking my pictures and what I can say beyond the outfit I am wearing that day. This is a situation where I have known this idea to be true but I am knowing it now at an even deeper level.
Creating much buzz this week. Virgil Abloh was appointed the first African-American creative director of a major Paris fashion house, Louis Vuitton. In his interview for Vestoj, he talks about how he designs his clothes in a way that forces you to think about the context of the object not just the object itself. He makes clothes that “reference what you may already have in your closet”, as his example. He is a man that understands that humans are always contradicting themselves and that is the nature of things. His clothes on a Paris runway are an example of a contradiction.
In a different but similar way Barthe references context when he makes the statement,
In short, the woman who wears fashion finds herself asked four questions: Who? What? Where? When? Her utopian garment answers at least one of those questions.
For our project of identity driven style those questions are at the heart of it. In the photo I post this week I am looking and feeling relaxed. I am in the new cafe that opened right down the block that is filled with light, good coffee and a bathroom (my closest Starbucks does not have one) and that is where I write and think these days. My jeans are worn and comfortable, my jacket fitted and sharp with soft florals slashed by red stripes. I am in my element here in this humble place, because it is where I create. Today this outfit is my “utopian garment” in my context answering at least a who, what and where question.
What is an example of one of your utopian garments? Which question does it answer?
Lyn, "Utopian Garment," I love this so much! Here comes a theme for me for sure. I think I’m always searching for the perfect "utopian garment," and when I find it I’m really in heaven. Right now, I’m looking for a really specific dress, it’s specific and yet I don’t know what it looks like. It’s flowing but not flowery, it’s minimal, but not boring. Maybe it’s black, maybe it’s red? It’s tailored and yet not. The context? The city. Who knows if I’ll find that dress, maybe it’s pants…
"Today this outfit is my “utopian garment” in my context answering at least a who, what and where question. I think this is so right in that your utopian garment will be different depending on your mood and the context. I think that’s what we mean when we say that we don’t feel right wearing such and such. I certainly have garments in my wardrobe in which I never seem to feel right. I think perhaps when I bought them I convinced myself that I was the sort of person who would wear this……….but it turned out I wasn’t. Perhaps that’s why most women wear 10% of their wardrobe 90% of the time with the 10% representing their utopian garments.
Dear accidental icon, I have been following you in your blog for the last month. You are such an inspiration to me as I continue to seek and learn in this one life. Thank you for your thoughts on these questions of who are you and/or what do you want to be. I am encouraged to persevere and to explore new avenues in my journey. I appreciate your willingness to share and be honest. I am viewing my clothing and fashions in a whole new light and a way of expressing my own brand of individuality.
I am retired, but study on the internet. My utopian garment when I study is my oversized pullover( Amanda Wakely) and tennis track pants for men from La Coste, they come in all colours and are incredible comfortable and look good. My sneakers at the moment are pink. When I put this outfit on I feel ready to study and concentrate well. Ruth, London
I have popped into your marvelous blog again after a hiatus of two years. I really like the posts about identity-driven style. A bit off-topic (or maybe not?), there is an interesting piece by Rosemary Hill on ‘frock-consciousness’ in the London Review of Books. I am posting the link to the video below:
https://www.lrb.co.uk/2018/03/28/rosemary-hill/video-what-does-she-think-she-looks-like?
or in printed form:
https://www.lrb.co.uk/v40/n07/rosemary-hill/what-does-she-think-she-looks-like
x Mariana (Cape Town)
Where my garments are concerned, my lifestyle dictates form/ fabric follows function. My context is mostly dictated by domestic chores, teenage children, feeding/ exercising pets, work in a hospital and commuting. I adore fashion and aesthetics but it makes me anxious for the following reasons:
expense
inevitable wear and tear re the above
Maintenance
Hang ups about visibility
Exhaustion – hence mostly I’m reaching for a comfortable utopian pair of grey tracksuit pants.
So I go round in circles – purchasing pieces I love but keeping them hidden and pristine, feeling like a drudge and knowing I’ve got too much but fear not enough.
Thanks once again for a thought provoking post- in recent years my utopian garment has been a dress – I have many – and choose one for each mood and context. It for the last few weeks I have been struggling with fatigue and I have found my red patent Dr Martins have given me a spring in my step quite literally because of their ‘bouncing soles’ but also because I am weary and angry and they express this well! The accompanying jeans and black tops are edgy enough to say- back off! I’m a different person at the moment! 🙂
I like to wear something fabulous and luxurious with something damaged – old worn out boots, or ripped, tattered jeans. It speaks to who we are as humans. Beautiful, yet sometimes hurt – or yes, even damaged. That’s my utopia.
Lyn, my utopian garments are my black stretch jeans and my ripped denims. I live in them. I wear them with anything and everything, dressed up with short or long jackets, kimono covers, a crisp white shirt, one of my favourite statement belts, jewellery and stilettos. Yes, stilettos at any age! Thank you for being an inspiration and validation that being who you really are is the most important thing at any age!
This NYC gal continually loves black and white, together and separate. I like textured and architectural clothes. I knit for myself with calming neutral and natural fibers – shawls, boxy sweaters, torque hats, adding beads, unexpected lace or handmade pompoms around the neck. All black or white outfit with lots of vintage jewelry is my comfort and confident oasis.