“It meant something to me – the idea of a coat guarding and hiding a woman’s body. For me, a woman who is absorbed in her work, who does not care about gaining one’s favor, strong yet subtle at the same time, is essentially more seductive. The more she hides and abandons her femininity, the more it emerges from the very heart of her existence.” Yohji Yamamoto

When I am in need of protection I feel both vulnerable and aggressive. I started constructing this outfit with a long black wool Yohji Yamamoto skirt providing the first layer of protection. Rather than a shirt, I added a grey wool dress by Andre Walker as the second layer. The dress, an unstructured cut, offers the possibility of emphasizing the waist by tying it in the front or the back. I love the effect of the double ties and the impact it has on the way the shoulders and the top of the dress drapes.  But the dress also made me feel vulnerable because it left my neck and arms exposed. I needed to counter with some aggression and leather is one of my favorite materials to convey this. Adding elbow length gloves, lace up boots and vintage bone earrings that hint at spears or weapons helped me to feel more protected. Adding a final layer of a Yamamoto black wool jacket allows me to transition from warrior princess to quirky academic and head off to teach a class and meet with students. My untied boot makes me a little unfinished.