Recently I have taken to wearing jeans almost everyday. There is a functionality and transformability about them that makes me feel like I can be anywhere, sit anywhere without worrying about getting messed up. There is a comforting sameness and anonymity that reminds me of my old school uniforms. Like my uniform they can also present a challenge when it comes to marking myself with a unique identity, with showing I have a mind of my own.

I have been seeing a lot of Issey Miyake lately, he seems to be a particular favorite among musicians. Recently, at Glastonbury 2017, Solange wore a cherry red mock turtleneck tucked into glossy pants. In the 1980’s Miles Davis wore Issey and Beyonce has played with black and white Madame T’s in her videos. In a recent photo, Rina Sawayama, a singer/songwriter and model based in London wears Pleats Please (and my favorite eyewear designer Percy Lau). Cambridge educated, Rina invites us to explore our online lives through her songs and lyrics. I wore my black Issey turtleneck with jeans when we recently posed together in London.

Pleats are essentially the reduction, withdrawal and diminishment of the fabric into a slim column while still offering the capability to expand and grow in volume. The shirt I am wearing suits the rhythm of my life right now and seems to house the uncertain emotions I am feeling right now, an in-between mood. This is a garment that allows me to have access to and to express profoundly different selves, in different moments and places. My inside becomes outside.  It is also a garment that has a mind of its own and therefore requires a transaction, a kind of co-construction to take place. It takes the edge off the aloneness I sometimes feel in the summer after an academic year filled with people, meetings and events.  I am reminded once again of how fashion is integral to the expression of identity and affect and why we need it more than ever now.

Do you have a special garment that has a mind of its own, or seems to know yours?