Recently there was a cover on British Vogue that was much applauded for making history because it included a diverse group of models. Finally, the many articles proclaimed, diverse women are being recognized on the covers of high fashion magazines. “To me they represent a new global idea that anything is possible,” wrote Edward Enninful, the magazine’s Editor in Chief. He further states, “It’s about diversity across the board – whether that’s race, size, socio-economic background, religion, sexuality. That’s what I want to celebrate with this cover.”
I have never used this platform to talk explicitly about age but I must say given Mr. Enninful’s statements about diversity somehow he has completely negated age as being “on board”. This is the first and maybe the last time I will address age but somehow it felt important for me to do so. In a world where there are 823,675,788 women between the ages of 25-65 (compared to 572,229,547 ages 15-25) that is a pretty large segment of the population that wears clothing, see themselves as having endless potential and much to contribute, and yet are not being represented. Disappeared and erased.
Even more I notice, the faces of diversity are all still representative of idealized notions of beauty. As I have written before it makes me feel that fashion is still talking to mannequins, representations of bodies that are now just changing shapes and colors. I get no sense of what stories these women can tell.
I worry that Muslim or plus size or Asian girls will look and think they have to be as beautiful as the model on the British Vogue cover to feel included. If you are over 25 does that mean you are not part of this global idea that anything is possible? A comment on my instagram today is a kind of data that supports this idea, “I am 25 going on 26 and as I age, I am afraid to get older. Seeing you rock your style makes me think differently about getting old. Love, love, love everything about you and thank you for this”. I have received countless similar emails and comments from this age group saying the same thing. How very terrible is it that one begins to fear the end before life has even really begun? That women are only important and beautiful for a very short period (10 years) of their lives during an era where we are now are expected to live until 80 and beyond. Perhaps this is the more important part of my project to convey to everyone you have limitless potential regardless of your positionality. Clearly it is something bigger than age.
In talking with a young designer from Parsons about how we could collaborate on the design of a garment that would realize the voice I have inside, the word transparency keeps coming up. For me I have been experiencing a dissonance, a distancing between my inner and outer (body) selves, a lack of continuity that I often took for granted before. My inner self is energetic, boundless, free, rebellious, strong, fearless, risk-taking and not congruent with the changes in my body, skin and hair. My body demands dignity, modesty and respect yet my inner self wants to be a wild child. Our challenge is how to figure out if a garment can reflect both. I think this is the underpinning of my adoration of Yohji Yamamoto, many of his garments can achieve this. How can there be a transparency in fashion that allows the voice and manifestation of the inner women to emerge? There needs to be a real activism that can transcend the societal constructions of our bodies.
So this shall become my new research project. To find the women and/or men inside and share what I find with designers who care to listen. To maybe even make some upcycled designs myself that transparently tell the story of the owner. As always my clothing tells my tale and in this photo I wear a shirt that both reveals and conceals.
Who is your woman/man inside? Do others see it?
Amazing commentary on age as related to the fashion industry. As a 60 ish woman who appreciates fashion and style, I couldn’t agree with you more. I too experience a dissonance between my inner youthful self and my external aging. Embracing both in fashion has been a struggle. Love the metaphor of your revealing tunic.
Your writing gives voice to my internal dialogue. Keep it coming.
GOOD morning Ms. brilliant and not just in the grey matter. You exude brilliance in every photo and that is what we should aim for: projecting our inner light.
In a much smaller ($$$) way, I have been unfurling my decorative wings. Started late in life, learning my own self-worth after many years in an abusive relationship.
From as simple as buying decorative panties as opposed to plain white cotton “sensible” ones, to wearing a dab of perfume on my wrists before going to sleep at night, it continues to be a journey.
And life gets more and more deLIGHTful every day.
Finally. I’m going to be 70 in July and I’ve been telling myself I’ll never be as beautiful as I am today. Enjoy it, wear it, go with it!
How wonderful, you have put into words my exact feelings! For many years I have been hoping for some sort of media or fashion guide that shows "older" women looking like they feel inside, but not to the point of ridiculous, if you understand my meaning. I applaud your tenacity in this and look forward to future posts.
Ah, Lyn, you speak to me today. My woman inside is as yours, free, rebellious, somewhat disconnected compared to my previous self, risk-taking, joy-seeking, strong and fearless. But recently my external self (body) has seemed to betray me, with injuries, pain and some fear and anxiety creeping in. I am probably 10 years older than you, and I am having so much trouble finding out how to adjust to my new realities without losing my confidence, joy and courage. Yes, do the research and I will follow your findings avidly.
Thank you!
I agree completely. Even when plus size or older models are featured, they are still "models", not average people. If older, they have exquisite cheekbones, beautiful silver blond hair and slim, toned figures. Plus size modes, the same but their figures are perfectly proportioned just a larger size. I, as an older and a perfectly normal size 14, am not represented anywhere. I have plenty of money to spend on fashionable clothes but nothing appropriate to buy in RTW so I sew my own clothes. I get a good fit and am not restrained by current trends or someone else’s idea of what is in style.
I find it horrifying that a 25 year old should fear getting older. When I was 25 my grandmother was still alive – she lived to 91, and a great aunt to 100. I saw their wrinkles and their frailty but also their experience, knowledge and wisdom. What they wore really didn’t come into it. Now it seems to all be about appearances, and the ability to tell our story through what we wear is an important part of communicating ourselves. I look forward to your research and your conclusions!
Very well put. I totally agree about the Vogue cover which is only a tiny step forward in terms of inclusivity. I’m 65 and have no intention of fading into the background
Thank you so much for what you shared in this wonderful post – loved it and agree so completely on this topic of aging, women’s worth, and how skewed things still are in looking at women. I was disappointed by the uninteresting Vogue cover. Glad for diversity in ethnicity shown, but one plus sized model and everyone still paralleling the same beauty paradigm is not representing much of the larger whole. Maybe I’m too idealistic in thinking more beauty can be represented in terms of highlighting the individual, showing a wider range of age to support all stages of life, celebrating different body types, etc. But it’s not a bad idealism, right? Thanks again ")
This expression of dissonance is exactly as I feel. I too struggle with the trends, but wear the one’s for me with joy. I am an RN and one to try to follow a healthy lifestyle and it takes dedication and perseverance. There needs to be balance in life. Beautiful clothing can not hide unhealthy choices. Just because something is large enough, or small enough, does not mean we should not aspire to be a healthy size. Think everyone know a”model” is just that. Most of the blogs and IG accounts I follow are by the older women. I love their grace and style and yours especially! I am very interested in your new research project. Hopefully designers and collaborators wil wake up and listen. You never cease to inspire me with every post and I thank you for that!
I am 40, and this really resonates with me. I feel vibrant full of life inside, but physically, am starting to show signs of age. And as far as fashion, my friends and I in this age group, we feel mostly invisible. We don’t want to look 19 and overly trendy, but we’re not quite ready for elastic waist jeans and muumuus. We have good personal style, but it is hard to find garments to express our sense of style.
Thank you for your blog, and your style inspiration on your IG. I think the work you do is important.
I turned 60 last year. I also got dumped last year, gained about 20 pounds and found out I have basal cell carcinoma. This is the first decade of age I haven’t liked. I feel visible when people need me to do something for them, but, out walking around in my day, by myself, I feel beyond transparent, I feel invisible. I’m still relatively healthy, I have a lovely apartment, good friends, who are almost all couples. I don’t date, because I’m protecting my heart. I have grown a lot in the 10 years since the end of my 30 year marriage, but, sometimes I feel I’m a little old to be asking myself what I want to be when I grow up. I am a good, loving, caring, passionate, determined woman. I am sad at what I’ve seen our country has become. I’m starting to lose hope. I can’t handle hate and racism and I’m beginning to really not like age-ism. Wonderful post, Lyn. Thank you.
I am interested in being part of this. I am an unusual person that has bright pink hair is turning 65 years old and not afraid to show my quirky style and express myself. I started powerlifting at the age of almost 59 and obtained a World Squat Record of 122.5kg with the IPF as a Master 3 84kg. female lifter. I try to wear what makes me happy and feel good about myself.
Hi Lyn,
Strangely I saw this front cover for the first time today and also discovered you for the first time today. I am 59, can’t sleep and was skimming Facebook, where your face popped up and I am delighted it did.
You are so right regarding this front cover. When I saw it today, I thought the models were all really beautiful, young and ‘typically’ Vogue. I also thought the magazine is trying to make a statement about being all inclusive, without achieving its aim. The picture made me feel they were being all inclusive on their terms, which is beyond the normal person in the street’s grasp. In other words something to admire and aspire to, but never attain. A little like the perpetual young beauty within the pages, showing us excuisite clothing that only a fraction of us mere mortals can afford. But that is what Vouge is about surely, whether we like it or not. If it changes too drastically, then it may cease to be the Vouge their readers expect to see and therefore, God forbid a drop in sales. I am afraid, although I would love to see your vision on the cover of Vogue, it won’t happen in this magazine.
The woman inside me is very similar (boring?) to the woman I have always been. Thicker round the middle, but still slim and I have a similar hair cut to you, which I love. I know what works for me and am confident with my style. Would love to be more adventurous, but don’t know where to start. However, now I have found you, I am hoping this is where I start…
Thank you For such a great piece ..,as usual I feel inspired by your sense of style, intelegence and beauty .
My inner woman is wild , hot and enegertic and curious about life , style and fashion , places I have never been .
Your project idea is bang on ! As I mature my inner woman wants to express myself the way I feel and at the same time I feel my body needs respect and modesty with a twist !
Look forward in hearing more about the project .
PS my background is garment industry …
Your comment about the 25 year old fearing the end of life before it has begun resonates with me. We spend our whole lives being afraid of aging. I’ll be 52 this year. I’m rockin’ my natural salt and pepper hair, which many people comment upon, and feeling more empowered at this age than I ever did at 25. I’m also becoming somewhat invisible. Less traditionally attractive by societal standards. Often referred to as "mom" around my office full of much younger people. How did that happen? My woman inside is still sexy, sassy and eager to keep learning and growing.
Bravo! Love you and love this post! The aging process is not for sissy’s. I remember watching my mother and hearing the frustration in her words and voice. “I hate getting old” were her exact words. They have stuck with me. However, as I approach 60, in September, I feel great! I am very active, love love love the weight room and have been lifting for 40 years! My passion is in fitness and fashion. I thrive on feeling great in my clothes but more importantly, in my skin! Your words and your mission to give the aging woman a voice and presence in this world today, give me hope! I heard a “aging woman” once say, “it’s like we become invisible as we get older”! How sad but true is this? So again, BRAVO to you for taking a stance! We stand cohesively with you! We are women, hear us roar, watch us soar❣️❣️❣️
Hi Lyn:
Thanks for this spot-on post.
Your work as a style maker and social critic is nothing short of revolutionary. Its reverberations–in empowering and inspiring women of all ages, in breaking down archaic barriers of age–are moving and shaking things up far beyond the world of fashion.
I’m a huge fan of Edward Enninful. I emailed him telling him how much I liked British Vogue’s May cover.
I also shared that I felt an issue on "models changing the face of fashion," would have been bolder and better if it included women of all ages.
I added a link to your post.
Xo,
Lorraine
Thank you, Lyn, for speaking out. Some of us have the double dismay of becoming more invisible in age after feeling overlooked or unjustly critiqued by the rigid beauty standards of our youth. Such a colossal pain — and such an annoying distraction from the great work we want to do. Not to mention the fact that the world needs us to do that great work in a hurry!
What a beautifully explorative article you have written…
Such thinking on clothing truly resonates with me.
Of the inner/outer self you write..
“Our challenge is how to figure out if a garment can reflect both”…
“Who is your woman/man inside? Do others see it?”…
I see it, yes…
My inner child speaks and has always spoken more of the clothing I wear, .. something that no one will ever be aware of, nor could they ever relate to because this my own personal self expression and my own individual creativity.
I very rarely find clothes that I can afford that truly express me,so….
For me, how I figure out if a garment can reflect both the inner/outer is to design and make my own clothes.
I chose a fabric that speaks to my inner child… I allow the fabric to speak to me and a design will emerge that reflects my inner self, and the shape and context of my outer body.
From a sheath of cloth a garment will evolve in stages and every stage will perfect every part of my inner self that I want to express.
That is my harmony.
Yes… I do think about these things , very deeply, always.
That is me… and that is how I am… who I am.
I’m a very analytical thinker and most people don’t ‘get’ me, … don’t fathom me, cant deal with intensity of detail, … can’t even be bothered with me..
But that is me, … and I now at my age of 65yrs can own it.
I wish your venture and project well and look forward to seeing what you discover.
Ahhhh Lynn. I have been writing about this very thing. I’ve never commented on a blog before but I feel I must here! You also liked a random, blurry photo I posted last night which pretty much made my year –so I’m coming out of my shell and raising my voice. Just this morning, on a call to my bf, after he had asked me how taking photos of myself was going (for a new project I’m working on). I relayed dismay at how the girl in my head.. the self I hold in my own mind.. doesn’t often reflect what I see when I look at the photos I’ve taken. It’s shocking. But it also brings out my curious side…. Who is she? Is she the self that others see? I remain ever youthful in my inner world, but my external self betrays my weathering. The incongruity is something I’m learning to get used to. The wonderful thing about fashion is how I can use it to express that inner self. My inner rebellion turns outward. While I complain at times about these changes, I can also say that I’ve never felt more sexy, beautiful and powerful than I do now, as I move towards 50. I do agree that age needs to be better represented in the fashion world.. in fact, the world at large, which is a reason I fell in love with Gucci’s 2018 Cruise campaign and all of the gorgeous, real, mature men and women featured. So fantastic. And, yes please, sign me up for those upcycled designs. We all need more stories. Thank you, Lyn for your inspiration and voice. xo
Fabulous. Please don’t let this be the last time you raise your voice on this issue. Youth is so fleeting and maybe that is why we glorify it. But for me in my own experience, everything that came after 25 in my own growing independence is so much sweeter, real, edgy, bold, and authentic including all my mis-steps, mistakes, mis-adventures, fundamental reversals, growth moments and successes. Why shouldn’t my perception of my body also hold space in this deep authenticity? Why should I have to struggle to put it there?
We need your voice and I hope you continue to use it to shed light on our majority. That sounds like an oxymoron but there you have it…
"Disappeared and erased." Exactly! But…no. Nevertheless, she persisted. Thanks for this inspirational piece. Looking forward to following along on your new research project. It’s work that’s well worth doing.
It annoys me to no end to see magazines go on about how they are now using models of different ethnic backgrounds and body shapes and how wonderful that is, but if you look at the models, they still represent an unattainable level of facial beauty. Where are the "regular" women?? And I agree, older women seem to be the last group to be included in this (aside from a occasionally a beautiful token white haired model appearing in a fashion ad)This is why I follow you and other women my age and older on IG but you represent a more realistic inspiration (it helps that I’ve met you and know you are an interesting, articulate woman).
Can we start with real "ageless fabrics" and "ageless design"(not just "classic")?
What about designs that don’t matter whether you have a "flat stomach" (just for an example) or not. What about clothes you can tie, wrap or style in many different ways, depending on what body part(s) you want to emphasize.
Same things with shoes; where is the customization and flexibility? With technology surely we should be at the point where we can add or subtract parts of a shoe.(more than just buckles)
To get beyond this subjective physical description of "age" is a need to develop designs that don’t depend on any one best shape of the body.
Recently I saw a video about how to wear a white button down shirt 5 ways. Cool! But why hadn’t a shirt been designed to provide that option in the first place. What about people with no arms, part of a shoulder or limited torsos, can they slip on a design without parts of a design related to sections of their body.
As I think about this, I think there needs to be a category of fashion beyond "classics" that gives one the flexibility to wear their garment any way they want to without rigid sizing.
The most relative concept I’ve seen to this is from years ago when someone designed an infinity dress( it could be fashioned many different ways). The fabric wasn’t the best; but the idea was great!
Another relevant type paradigm was the women who raised money for a charity by wearing one dress( a black one) which was designed to be worn as a tunic, coat, dress, jacket or whatever you want. She styled it for 365 days using a change of accessories. ( check all the links on the site and you can see all the designs)
Here’s a link in case you haven’t seen it:
http://theuniformproject.com/upweb/#!about
Hi I am going through exactly what you’ve posted above re:transparency. I’m searching for a wedding outfit, but I am quirky, a bit rock chick, I want feel sexy yet sophisticated. Finding an outfit that encompasses all that about me has been so difficult. Clothing for occasions are so fixed and as flexible as I had hoped especially when woman come in all shapes and sizes and are of differing ages. Thank you for being our voice, I hope your insight will far outweighs the momentary seasons of fashion so that women ‘be’ who they are from the inside out. Greatly inspired.
Kerri S from the UK
Age: 59
Grandmother, mom and wife of 41 years.
I am always wanting to dress as I always have: denim and lace. Boots, hat, a bit hip I suppose. I’ve had a huge life change over the last two years and I totally lost myself in it. Our 16 month old grandLittle was diagnosed with cancer. She is three now, and stable. The catastrophic illness changed everything. I gained weight, stopped coloring my hair and in those most difficult days, saw my elderly mother in the mirror.
I just "found" you today. I thank you for inspiring me. This. Finally, someone I can relate to, someone who, like me, is ready to embrace who we are and not strive for an imitation of what was.
I have to get back to me. I sew, and I will be taking my closet apart to create my new "me".
Thank you for the inspiration and God bless.
What an important and wonderful text.
I love this!!!
I tip my hat to you and how you fearlessly address fashion. As a woman in her sixties, I too dress how I want too with no thought of my age or "size" (14). I think it is very important for older women to stay fashionable and part of the modern world so that they do not become invisible. We……..have a lot of wisdom, knowledge and valuable experiences to share with the world.
Hi Lynn
I’m a 64 year old California woman, I just stumbled upon your blog recently thru a post from a friend on Facebook…how great it is!!! I too am an ‘aging fashionista’….Many years ago I did live in NYC and work in the fashion industry, it was heady stuff, and I met and worked with many of the greats of that time, Ralph Lauren, Willi Smith, Stephen Burrows, the Missonis…my love of fashion is deep! As I transitioned into other careers and lives, I have never lost my love of fashion and the ‘daring’…I continue to dress as I please, but find myself constantly questioning if I am trying to ‘look younger’, ‘dress as a teenager’ etc…My creative outlets with fashion have been limited to Facebook postings of selfies and outfits, but occasionally, I am rewarded by folks (complete strangers) telling me that I look good, where did I get a specific piece of clothing, etc…
I also find societies and fashion ignorance of the older woman disturbing, particularly as older, more mature women have more discretionary income!
As an artist and film maker, I have long been interested in aging and especially women and aging …….KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!!
all u wear is cool
I think it is important to know that there are large groups of primarily, but not only, women who do adhere to completely different standards from commercial fashion. A notable example is the knitting community Ravelry.com This has had a role in revolutionising fashion so quietly that unless one is a knitter one wouldn’t know. It has transformed the process in which fashion is made for oddly shaped Vogue models and photoshopped to perfection.
It is all about real people’s shapes and desires. All in a generous community of supportive and generous people numbering a million or more.
I expect there are like-minded sewing communities etc.
Making one’s own clothes permits freedom from the monotonous and often inappropriate treadmill of fashion.
You have always been an inspiration to me.