Today marks the start of Fashion Revolution Week. I’m happy to have something tangible to revolt against. It’s been challenging for me as a social welfare activist for most of my life to be still, quiet and indoors. Sadly, I have entered the realm of a “high risk” category because of my age and cannot be out and about working at food banks or supporting families that are struggling. I realize today how “helping” made me feel in control when faced with things that seemed uncontrollable like poverty, inequality, and violence. All the new jobs that we gained in the recent past in this country, have been found to have trapdoors and millions of workers are falling through. Those things once again “in my face”.
Of course, I’ve been “helping virtually”, matching up fashion folks with social workers to get them masks, supporting small businesses and staying in close touch with my family, friends, readers, and followers but somehow it does not feel like enough. Every ounce of my social welfare activist DNA is screaming to take action and be heard. So while advancing the idea of small, local and community, participating in Fashion Revolution Week allows me to also practice “sustainable”.
A seam ripper is a small tool that is used in sewing to remove stitches, open seams, cut threads, and open buttonholes. It is a wonderful metaphor for when you might want to start again, open up a new perspective in your life or simply clean up some loose ends. I’ve been doing much of it lately, both literally and figuratively. The virus has been like a seam ripper taking apart value and supply chains in fashion and showing us we can’t go on as before. There are “pieces” of the system scattered all over the globe, no longer able to physically connect. How we will put everything back together is up for grabs. That’s why this Fashion Revolution Week is more important than ever.
Not only am I working on taking apart an old pair of jeans to make a skirt, but I’ve also been taking apart the “garments” I’ve worn as a professor and as an influencer, I’ve been seeing what parts of each role I love and what parts I do not. None of the sacrifices made during this time will make sense if we don’t move forward with care for others at the forefront. I’ve been using this time to see how I might fit in the value chain in a way that I love and that is a benefit to others. Just like sustainability does not mean we have to stop loving clothes, fashion and social justice don’t need to be seen in opposition to each other. In fact, fashion has throughout history been used as a tool of rebellion. I offer Punk, Suffragette White, jeans, black leather jackets and of course Coco Chanel and Yohji Yamamoto as examples.
The fashion system has had to stop right now. It will need to be turned back on but would it not be wonderful if all of the talents in the world of fashion could re-design it? Wouldn’t it be wonderful if small, interesting and local brands collaborated together to increase their chances of survival? If one person could make a garment from start to finish and be able to feel the sense of pride that comes from that? So many creative opportunities to re-imagine.
There are many virtual panels, discussions, workshops, and events scheduled over this Fashion Revolution Week. I’m signed up for many of them. Interestingly, I find the conversations that are being held in the UK to be the most thoughtful and interesting. It’s kind of amusing to me because when I was in academia I always preferred to read European journals rather than those published in the USA. That would be a whole other blog post. So I would suggest that you check out the wonderful organization, Fashion Revolution founded by Carry Sommers and Orsola de Castro. They are offering Open Studios and Workshops as well as campaigns that suggest you ask the brands you buy from, #WhoMadeYourClothes and ask that you tell a story about a loved piece of clothing, #lovedclotheslast. Given who my readership is many of you are probably already familiar.
Another suggestion is to check out Fashion Our Future, a campaign started by Amy Powney of the luxury sustainable brand, Mother of Pearl. This is a grassroots campaign that promotes the idea that it is one small action that can add up and make a movement. It has clever roles (mine is a fixer) that conform to one dedicated action you can take which makes starting down a sustainable path quite doable,
So this week, I’m doing the parts I love about being a professor, research and reading (maybe teaching a lesson or two) and the parts of being an influencer I love, inspiring and guiding. If you have other resources, events, papers or books you might suggest for Fashion Revolution Week, please post in your comments. As always during these times, stay safe and well,
Hi,
Could you show us more ideas of how to look chic, fun and stylish at home?
Thanks,
Roxana
Fashion Designer, 60 years old, Hispanic and your admirer
The fashion system has not worked for so many of us for a very long time, and this despite the cries of those of us who are plus-sized, those of us on a budget, those of us of a certain age and many others. I hope that cutting off revenues will, finally, make some people think about how their approaches. Thank you for putting all this into words.
I would love to put you in touch with my niece in Brooklyn, who makes handmade, one of a kind, up-cycled clothing. Very different. She is from Turkey and is very creative. She sells them at the Chelsea Market and on ETSY. I think you would like her pieces and also her business philosophy and technique. She has been doing this since 2011. When I saw you with the seam ripper, I immediately thought of her.
Your thoughts are so interesting and provocative…not only for the fashion minded
S
You have given all of us so many thoughts to chew on and use our seam rippers!!
Thank u !!!!!!!
Your thoughts are so interesting and provocative not just for the fashion minded
You have given me much to chew on …I’m keeping my seam ripper handy
Thank you!!!
Thank you for the inspiration! I have “vintage” clothes that I no longer use, but held on to them for too long because they are very dear to me. I also consider my self an environmentalist and the idea of just having to discard things and create more trash bothers me to no end. During this quarantine period I have come to terms with the fact that I would finally move them to the donate/trash pile. But your post was just what I needed! I will find a way to take them apart and create my own new updated styles! No to more trash and yes to recycling and making new!! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
So fabulous to hear from you this week. I always find yiur articles so inspiring. Thank you! X
Lovely to read yiur articles this week. I always find your posts incredibly inspiring. Thank you x
Thank you. Inspirational and informative
You are truly inspiring and impressive.
We need new, revolutionary thinking.
Thank you.
Thérèse
Thank you for another thoughtful piece.
Wow, thank you for wording what we all feel! Wonderful thoughts and words!
I have been feeling similar, as I am (normally)an active doer. At age 72, despite I am healthy and very able I am also asked not to leave the house. As my passion is food related – I am a former chemist and chocolatier, I enjoy helping people to eat fancy but healthy and practical gourmet food. Working hard to move online, but also started to pick up offering special bread, ethnic food to nurses or patients in our local area. Feels better doing something!
Your articles are high level blessing, out of the usual and rather boring style. Keep ripping the steams!
I have always loved to sew and still have my granny’s seam ripper, as well as one I bought decades ago. There is a certain satisfaction you get when you choose a piece of fabric, a pattern and make something from start to finish. Agree with the fashion system has to stop right now. As a gardener I can see how all that we do affects everything. Air quality is better, my garden is growing in ways I have never seen before, the air smells sweet and I feel better. When I look at clothing now I think about how it was made, was the person paid fairly, did they have healthy working conditions? Love the picture of you sitting there with your seam ripper. Sustainable is a wonderful word. Appreciate all your thoughts and references.
I enjoy the way you think and how you communicate. Thank You For taking the time to share with us.
This is the best thing you have written in your recent posts. More authentic and engaged than rants about your new status etc in my opinion.
I’m in England under tight lock down still and ongoing. Being in my late 60s though dynamic well and active we can be kept in it is threatened into 2021.
Like you I’m engaged with Fashion Revolution. And have signed up for a virtual stitch And bitch session this weekend. Armed with needles or wool or darning and my stitch unpicks, which I own on duplicate.
Keep up the good work on New York and stay safe
Thank you for rethinking the precious wardrobe. I love my clothes as I see you do. I am reinventing how I look at these expensive elements of my identity. Last year I earned my long held goal of an MFA, and are now retired from my business so I am on a new track. I will dress even more as the artist that I am. Bless you for your courage to put your honesty “ out there”.
Letter 2 to Lyn
Dear Lyn
Thank you for your inspiring thoughts and suggestions. I have a great desire to attend a Li Edelkoort seminar in Basel / Switzerland if this is possible again because of the virus.
There is still something great to do with sustainability in Switzerland. http://Www.walkincloset.ch There are exchange events in different locations at the beginning of the season. You bring 10 pieces of clothing or accessories with you, give them away, pay a small admission price and look for 10 pieces to take home with you, from those that the others brought with you. During Corona this should be done via the network
Kind regards
tanree Renate
I learned more about you in this post
Stay happy & healthy in these trying times
Thanks for the great post and for the links to the two sites.
Another thoughtful article on a subject that requires serious consideration. I’ve been struggling with the feeling that much of our lives is based on “fluff”, things and ideas that are not seriously relevant to our existence. On the other hand, I love art, fashion and luxury. Your information and ideas on sustainability in fashion, inspire me to rethink many aspects of consumerism, and you inspire me be be proactive in this regard.
I’m 71 and had a very high position in Corporate America and always made my own clothes. Some days I would come back from the office and wonder what I had accomplished. I could head to my sewing room and see tangible results.
I believe what we thought of as progress in the industrialized world has led to much of the sense of loss of self worth.
Yes I am seeing so many people feeling such a sense of achievement when making something at home
HI, always love your writing….glad you are back to it….have to tell you I saw a commercial on TV last night from GoDaddy…and there you were! So exciting to see a familiar face, short hair, so I’m sure you filmed a while ago….Highlight of the day!
Keep up the good, encouraging vibes.
A member of our creative clothing workshop introduced us to your blog. What a pleasure it is to read your lucid, intelligent thoughts on fashion. I always read your recommendations and enjoy them as well.
Thank you, Therese Stein
Welcome and thank you!
Thank you so much for your recent posts. I’ve been in a bit of a creative slump and asking myself how I can make a difference in this world with my art. You’ve inspired me to pull out my sewing machine and explore fashion.
Letter 1 to Lyn
Dear Lyn
Thank you for sharing your thoughts with us again. They are both a suggestion, an inspiration and an invitation to debate. Clothes, for me it’s full closets. Expression of my idiosyncrasy, I love them and I don’t part with them either. New, old, vintage (we call it from the Brockenhaus), second-hand. I have a good color memory and always find things to combine. For many years I wore almost only black, hardly any jewelry. Architect look, after I have largely said goodbye to this field of work, I became more colorful and began to decorate myself. The older I get, the more fun I get with it. For whom? For me, me and again for me. To my delight! Of course I’m happy about the compliments from my surroundings, but actually I don’t really need them. Clothes as an expression of my second skin, my shell, my house. Feel safe in my second skin. One of my sources of inspiration was / is Swiss designer Christa de Carouge, who unfortunately passed away in 2018. It is a role model at various levels: formal language, idiosyncrasy, sustainability, dealing with age. One of her last statements was: “I’m grateful that I was able to live the way I wanted to.” She lived her thing until the end when she died at 81. http://www.christadecarouge.ch. At the end of 2018 she had an exhibition on her work at the Kunsthaus in Zug. She passed away during this exhibition and we were allowed to put on our sleeves and indulge in tears for an afternoon. If you fly to Zurich again (should our previous life rise from the ashes again), you should visit the studio shop in the Tiefenbrunnen (with Tram 4 from Zurich main station). De Niz, her successor, continues to lead him. One of her most ingenious pieces is a soft cloth, size 160/350 cm, with 4 slits that can be worn in X variants: wrapped, looped, knotted. Feminine, sophisticated, ingeniously simple. Sustainability here means: variable!
Many many ways to love fashion and be sustainable
So, Right on target
thank you, Lyn.
In this pause and the reflection that comes in through the anxiety, this is the very best thing I have read. Adam Wilson of Running Stone Bread speaks of the connective tissue of our choices and illuminates a beautiful path forward that reaches beyond fashion to a way of being.
http://www.runningstonebread.com/
with love,
Suzanne
I always enjoy your posts. Thank you!
Thank you for your post. This might be off-subject but still very important. The PPP money was intended for small businesses and the small brands you referred to. However some corporations have double dipped. I am referring to Ruth Chris who found a way to get $20 million when the max is $10 million. I have written to them and both my congressman to return at least half of the money.
This may not be the right forum, but I would like to see as many people as possible do the same.
They should have better morals. to take from the many small businesses who may not survive, is just so immoral.
Thank you for reading, thank you for your posts and please take care of yourself, your family and friends.
Kind wishes,
Jill
Yes these are the kinds of things that mean we are not understanding the impact on individuals.
I feel the same way, sad that being considered a “high risk” individual I cannot volunteer my stay at home free time helping others when so much help is needed. I know that there is light at the end of the tunnel and I know that even though I’m not actively participating in the recovery of a country in need, I hope my prayers in some way, in a miniscule way are heard and in my heart I know they are. I ask healing for all humanity. Stay safe.
Take a chance, live life, I do it everyday .
Would love to see the jean skirt when it’s finished!
You will!
As spot on & thought provoking as always.
I agree! I would love to see more local, down home influences in the fashion industry.
Thank you for this. As a small, independent jewelry maker I love when small and independent anything is spotlighted. My hope for our future is when the dust has settled we all value what we have more than before. That we once again are proud of what is created in our own neighbourhoods and we become champions of the local and the handmade, and realize that a few well made pieces of clothing are worth more than many poorly constructed pieces that cost pennies.
I would like to repurpose a pair of jeans and would love to see how yours came out.
Would like to repurpose some jeans as well, would be interested in seeing how you skirt turned out.
Thanks
At first I wondered what my role would be in the coronavirus pandemic we’re all living in. I sew, I’m a textile artist, so my immediate thought was to help sew masks. I’m doing that, but not the way I imagined. I saw that so much of our individuality identity was being lost as we cover half our faces with a uniform of sorts. Our smiles aren’t seen by children anymore. I got out a lot of fabrics. Personality fabrics, religious fabrics, bright colors. I’m making ultra-creative face masks that help people feel like they still have their identity, and just as much as I’m making people happy, I’ve found some happiness with this, too.
Bonnie Cosentino
3:31 PM (3 minutes ago)
to me
At first I wondered what my role would be in the coronavirus pandemic we’re all living in. I sew, I’m a textile artist, so my immediate thought was to help sew masks. I’m doing that, but not the way I imagined. I saw that so much of our individuality was being lost as we cover half our faces with a uniform of sorts. Our smiles aren’t seen by children anymore. I got out a lot of fabrics. Personality fabrics, religious fabrics, bright colors. I’m making ultra-creative face masks that help people feel like they still have their identity, and just as much as I’m making people happy, I’ve found some happiness with this, too.
I would be interested in seeing some of the masks you’ve created. I have the same idea that masks could be made more fun and attractive than what’s commercially available right now, but I’ve had great difficulty getting started. Right now I’m in the midst of a bout with emotional flu and been unable to accomplish anything. It too shall pass, I know. Thank you for your positive and uplifting attitude.
Thank you so much! I’d love to send you some photos of the highly individualized designs I’m creating, (and loving it). I don’t know how to do that here, but I’m on facebook. I am Bonnie Cosentino-Welsch (Bonetstasia). I tried to fix an error in my comment up there and it came through twice. I don’t know how to delete the first one! Again, thanks for your interest!
If you go to my Facebook page you can post them there and allow many of the women who follow to enjoy them too.
I gather you have all the tools to re-sew garments into new things, I had a moment, myself when I brought supplies to make some re-useable washable masks since I couldn’t find them. (I have since ). Unfortunately, I found out you need a sewing machine, I was intending to hand sew the masks as I gave up my sewing machine decades ago. (a nice Singer with all the extras). My sister in New Jersey is the only one who actively sews using her Sewing machine and I can’t (like you) really leave the house to mail the materials to her. I am going to see, via the Nextdoor app if I can donate to someone nearby who’s making masks, the supplies if they are willing to pick them up. Right now, fashion should be geared toward remaking the old into new with the emphasis on quality versus quantity. Also since wearing masks looks like it is here for the long term, we should have a nice variety of choices to choose from as the new fashion item. They should all come with proper cleaning instructions for both the exterior and the interior cushion that sits on your face.
I’ve been following this movement for a few years now. It brings me hope!
I live in Australia and one of our fashion brands, Cue has been manufacturing hospital gowns during the lockdown. This has allowed some of their workers to continue sewing and the gowns have been donated to hospitals. Win-win!
Curious about the skirt you are making. I want to make a 1970s inspired “jean “ skirt from a pair of jeans. Seems pretty doable!
I love that you are matching up fashion folks with social workers to get them masks. As a social worker on an in-patient hospital unit, I’m “essential” and have to commute to work/home. Wearing a mask all day at work, only my eyes can be seen behind my mask. Working with people with mental illnesses, this is especially difficult. But fashionable masks help other’s see that we have personality and we want to help bring something nice to the unit daily.
I love that way of looking at a mask as an element of personality
I have been recycling some of my favorite clothing and accessories into new creations,I was doing this in the seventies when I was in high school mostly with hand stitching and leathers and reverse (suede ) because the stitching looked so sophisticated. I now work with lots of vintage denim too
Gardening is my other passion, bringing new life to all our gardens
Now is the time to make your creative dreams come true!
Lovely to hear from you in this horrible time for our world,,I’ve been making clothes for 40 year’s and remeber when everything here in NZ was Made In NZ and nothing China,,it started in the 80’s with made in Taiwan,,then made in bangladesh,Made in Fiji and China came and took over the majority of anything you can buy here now..it is very hard to buy from other country’s and I do try my best,,alot of garment manufacturer’s here say designed in NZ,when you ask where it is manufacturered some don’t answer and other’s say China. We still do have garment manufacturer’s,,but those who are still take advantage of their sewer’s who back in the 80’s made very good money,,now they say we have to compete with China,,yet retail sell for 300% prices? I’d given up even starting my own label after our christchurch earthquakes,,but now I’m being asked by friends of friends would you make this or that,,I’ll pay,,forget about china,,support our people first,,hopefully that is what happen’s,,I’ve missed my trade,,still been making my own clothes and tailoring is my background anything and everything women’s clothes plus I trained as an embroidery machinist too,,screenrpinting,,I’ve done it all,,perhap’s now I’m bordering 58 year’s I may now get that label I put off 10 year’s ago? The machines are screaming to me to be used,,I’ll forget about the horrible virus,,we now have nearly driven out of our country New Zealand thanks to the best Prime Minister of this Earth fighting it from the front,,please take care of yourself and remember yourself First,,you cannot help anyone if you get sick too,,help them after you have fought this virus in your country and Won..Take Care to all of your follower’s too..I wish you well from the bottom of this Earth,, Christchurch in New Zealand
I like the metaphor for changing and starting anew. Rather than ripping apart the seams they are picked of gently which gives pause to reflect. I enjoy your posts so much and as we circle the same age bracket – there’s much to reflect on. Stay well, safe and sane.
Love your last two posts, you’re at your leisure’ looking beautiful, relaxed, stylish!
Gosh, Lyn – you hit where it matters! As a child of Africa, there is a saying we use when someone makes you think twice: You have kicked the ant hill… And that you have done (for me) with the Fashion Revolution link. Goodness, I didn’t actually know/realised the impact of donating clothing to charities… Thank you for giving me a hard shoulder-push.
Thank you for your inspiring information.
Always makes my day a bit brighter when I
See that there is an email from you.
Stay healthy and HAPPY EARTH DAY!
Our lovely Earth is having a chance to cleanse!!
Sincerely,
Kathleen Davis
Really appreciate this post and all the comments. I agree the thoughts you have shared in this post make me feel closer connected with you than your prior ones.
Can’t wait to see the jean skirt you create!! OMG they were such the rage and probabaly will now be once again!!
I also have fallen into a major non-medical face mask production gig for my local post office.
I am thrilled because what my consumer likes about them is actually my fabric choice, even more so than the design I got from a nurse.
I am making my masks from my fabric hoard of African wax prints. (Many Etsy shops have a bounty of this fabric which is a very tightly woven and color fast cotton in extremely fibrant patterns.)
So the question of how to express yourself when you must cover up a major body component has awakened again a perennial fashion challenge. Strike a pose!
I always love and benefit from your writing. Thank you so much in this revolutionary time for us all.
Now teaching online, so ‘fashion’ is from the waist up. An unexpected discovery is the delightful off topic conversations: admiring everyones’ soft pets (so many cats!), food cravings (more than half of us would drive five hours for a croissant), and our covid fashion, i.e. masks, favorite clothing item, make-up yes or no. For the favorite fashion item, leggings won by hundreds of percents, followed by sweatpants, plus a few who prefer pajama bottoms. When we emerge from all this, I wonder if comfort fashion will make a comeback, a la Norma Kamali sweatshirt dresses and sleeping bag coats, or perhaps we will jettison comfort and easy to wash and dry for taut glamour.
P.S. as a young hippie chick I made a skirt like yours, ripping the seams of an old pair of jeans, adding a pie wedge of calico quilting up the middle. I loved that skirt. Can’t wait to see your version!
Still, be the coolest woman in the world 🙂
You are so eloquent in your writing and have an uncanny knack for verbalizing what my brain can’t seem to muster. Thank you for another great column.
I’m doing a lot of seam ripping these days as I’m volunteering and sewing scrub hats for our healthcare professionals.
I too recognise that I’ve always got through period of social upheaval through being an activist and doer. This time though we’ve been quarantined for almost two months now because my partner is in a mega vulnerable group. I allow myself a few moments a day to feel rage at the shambolic response of our UK government though at least we don’t have idiots on the streets protesting the public health measures, we’ll not yet anyway.
Thinking fashion revolution are you familiar with the work of Tansy Hoskins author of Stitched Up (the anti capitalist book of fashion) and most recently Foot Work (what your shoes are doing to the world). I should have been with her for the book launch back in early March but it had to be done live on line. She is not just a fabulous journalist but a seriously stylish young woman!
http://www.tansyhoskins.org/